24 hours in Paris
a suggested itinerary (and recap of my favourite spots)
What I’m reading: A Field Guide to Getting Lost, by Rebecca Solnit. A beautifully written collection of short stories - although perhaps a little too profound for me in my current headspace
What I’m listening to: Cillian Murphy on Blindboy’s podcast. I’m really excited to see his new film which is based on a Claire Keegan novel.
What I’m eating: pizza at Ria’s, Notting Hill. Another lovely Detroit-style pizza spot (below)
Now, I will be the first to say that 24 hours in Paris is not enough. I have been lucky enough to spend a decent amount of time in Paris over the last few years (a month in 2021 stage-ing at Ten Belles, and a month last year looking after my cousin’s two kids), and I still haven’t been to all the places I want to go to - not even close. However, I do quite enjoy the challenge of fitting as much as possible into 24 hours. Paris is a great destination for quick trips, especially if you live somewhere with a direct train route there - and actually, flights from Ireland can be pretty cheap too, if you book far enough in advance.
I’ve detailed below how I would recommend spending 24 lovely hours in Paris, but I’m going to add a few extras, in case you get a weekend or perhaps even a week. To get around efficiently, the Metro is great, but I actually really back Lime bikes - particularly for a trip from the 10th/11th arrondissement to the 7th (where the Eiffel tower is). The journey only takes about half an hour, and brings you along the Seine by the Tuilerie gardens and Hôtel des Invalides etc.
Itinerary
Arrive in Paris 11am (we took the Eurostar from London, but whichever way you’re travelling, I think it’s nice to arrive in the morning without starting your journey so stupidly early that you’re wrecked for the rest of the day).
Check in at your hotel (or at least leave your bags). This time I stayed at District Republique in the 10th which is very basic but cheap and conveniently located near Gare du Nord and Canal Saint-Martin. Hôtel Edgar & Achille is lovely too - either way, I think it’s best to stay somewhere between the Marais and Canal Saint-Martin. I also have a soft spot for a hotel called Esmeralda which is on the Seine overlooking the Notre Dame - but it’s definitely on the more rustic side.
There’s time for at least two bakeries before lunch, so I recommend Du Pain et des Idées for chaussons aux pommes and escargots, which you’ll eat by the canal, followed by Ten Belles, where you’ll get a great sandwich and coffee. If you need another coffee straight away, Perlant is just around the corner. It’s worth noting that DPEDI is only open during the week, but see other nearby bakery options below if you’re there on the weekend.
Fuelled by pastries and coffee, it’s time for the cultural part of the day. If you’ve never been to Paris before, I do think it’s worth going up to the summit of the Eiffel tower for the views alone. You can get a good sense of the layout of the city, get your steps in, and the cycle there is along the Seine, which is rather lovely. It’s also worth having a little wander in the Champs de Mars (the park behind the Eiffel tower).
On your way back towards the 10th/11th, if you have time, I really recommend stopping by the Orangerie to see Monet’s waterlilies. I’ve seen them most times I’ve been to Paris, and they never get old. You can also have a little wander downstairs - there’s some Picassos and Matisses especially that are worth a look.
You’ll walk from the Orangerie through he Tuilerie gardens towards the Louvre, but hang a left just before the end of the gardens to find Le Rubis. Although it’s in one of the more touristy parts of Paris, it still really feels like a neighbourhood bar, and has always been full of locals whenever I’ve been. You can get a pint or a glass of wine, and - crucially - some saucisson, cheese and baguette to keep you going until dinner.
After your afternoon tipple, head over to E. Dehillerin: the best kitchen shop in the world. I wish you the best of luck leaving here without purchasing anything (and for that reason, it might be worth your while checking in a bag for your return trip to avoid having those knives confiscated).
Now it’s time to head back to the 10th, for a glass of wine at Septime la Cave. The staff there are really friendly, and highly knowledgeable about natural wines.
For dinner, there are so many options - but I can recommend Le Servan, for really tasty food that feels simultaneously French and Asian. I especially recommend the wontons. There’s another list at the bottom of this email with more restaurants to try out if you’ve got more than one evening in Paris!
After dinner, head to Candelaria for a speakeasy cocktail bar hidden behind a taco restaurant. It’s really cosy and atmospheric and the drinks are super creative. Next is Le Mary Celeste, where you can also get good cocktails, but personally at this time of I’m on more of a pint buzz - but of course, that’s completely up to you.
After this, there are few bars open past 2am (especially midweek), but of course you can go looking for a club - or you can do what I would recommend, which is making the trip to Au Pied de Cochon, which is a brasserie that stays open until 5am. So if you’re craving profiteroles (or, you know, oysters or French onion soup) - you know what to do.
I’m presuming after this you’ll want a little lie-in the next morning, which is totally fine - but make sure you’re up in time for breakfast at Mamiche. I recommend getting a sandwich and at least one pastry, and once again, eating them by the canal for the full Parisian experience. You should still have time for one more bakery, which should really be Utopie or French Bastards - and if you’re too full to eat them there and then, you’ll be glad to have them on the train/plane (and I also recommend picking up a baguette or two to bring home with you for when you’re back in rainy London).
Other bakeries
Tapisserie - especially for the tarte fine aux pommes
Maison d’Isabelle (for allegedly the best croissant in Paris, also an excellent chausson aux pommes)
Blé Sucré for viennoiserie
Mori Yoshida for Japanese/French pastries
Other restaurants
La Buvette - natural wine bar with small plates. Tiny but very fun
Racines - Michelin star (I think) bistro - food is excellent, service wonderful
Les Deux Magots - iconic but expensive. Get a croque monsieur and glass of wine
Miznon for a lovely Middle Eastern sandwich
Le Baron Rouge - excellent (and cheap) natural wine list. Plates of charcuterie etc. and oysters shucked fresh outside on the weekend. Packed but good craic
Finally, here’s my Paris map list! Bon appetit x