Mexico City Restaurant Recommendations

with a link to my Google Maps for accessible eating tips

What I’m reading: A Theatre for Dreamers, by Polly Samson. Light enough for a summer read, but with descriptive, evocative writing.

What I’m listening to: I’m Grand Mam. It’s back, it’s better than ever, and they wrote a book! Pre-order here.

What I’m eating: perfect pastries at Pan con Madre, Oaxaca

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I went to Mexico City in mid June for 4 days, and ended up staying for a month. Last week, I fabricated a reason to return (a mini pop-up with my friend Odette at Ella y Gatsby), and stayed for another wonderful week. In my experience, it’s rare to visit a city and feel so at home so quickly. I was lucky enough to make friends with the hospitality crew (a community of chefs, cooks, bakers, sommeliers, restauranteurs etc.), and now CDMX is, for me, synonymous with excellent food, big nights out, great wine and a genuinely kind, generous community of food-oriented people. I’m quite seriously thinking about making the move permanent at some point in the future, although I have plenty of other places to go and people to see in the meantime.

Here’s some of my favourite places to eat in CDMX - save for your next visit (which I urge you to start planning now). I’ll do a follow up post soon with bakeries, bars and cultural things, but I think I have at least one more CDMX trip in me before I leave Mexico … watch this space.

You can also find my Google Maps list here in case you do go, and want to find good spots to eat, drink and be merry near where you’re staying.

(When it comes to accommodation, I don’t have any big recommendations, as I’ve been lucky enough to stay with friends for the most part - I stayed in Viajero Hostel in the Centro Historico for a few days, which was grand, and I’ve heard Case Pepe is also good, as hostels go. I do recommend staying in Roma or Condesa if possible, and I imagine there are good Airbnbs available around there.)

Los Cocuyos

Anthony Bourdain visited this taqueria as part of his series No Reservations, where he ate tongue, tripe, brain and eyeball tacos. As a long-time, die-hard Anthony Bourdain fan, this was one of the first places I ate when I got to CDMX. I hate to say it, but they weren’t the best tacos I’ve had on this trip - BUT there’s something pretty special about eating tacos in the same place as your culinary and literary idol. Worth a visit. 

Choza

Choza is a Thai-inspired speakeasy-ish restaurant and bar that only opens Saturday and Sunday, plus Monday as a “listening room”, with great DJs and music events. We had to wait almost an hour for a table, but it was absolutely worth it. The chopped cheese was excellent, incredible ceviche, some lovely cookies and milk to finish. 

Imbiss 

Having spent many a late night at Imbiss, I can confirm that the drinks and staff are top-tier. I never had dinner there while I was in CDMX, but I did try the famous fried chicken at a pop-up at Anita, and it surpassed my (already high) expectations. Go for dinner, stay for the party. 

Expendio de Maíz

I loved this meal. There is no menu, and the food keeps coming until you are no longer hungry - innovative, fresh Mexican food with a contemporary twist. I recommend going hungry so you can try as many dishes as possible. 

Contramar 

I have been a long-time fan of Gabriela Cámara, so I was extremely excited for this lunch at Contramar. The tuna tostada was perfect, and you absolutely must try the red and green snapper. The desserts were also wonderful, and I loved how they brought over the whole tray before we ordered. The fig tart was exceptional, as was the strawberry and meringue cake - plus, you can order a fresh mango for dessert which, IMHO is simplicity at its finest. 

Jenni’s Street Quesadillas

Made with blue corn, and sold from a food cart in Roma, these quesadillas are exceptional. I’ve been a few times, and can’t fault the chorizo/potato quesadillas, and the tlacoyos - slightly thicker than corn tortillas, and filled with cheese and beans before being fried. I’m keen to try the pambazo on my next visit: a sandwich where the bread is dipped in red guajillo pepper sauce, before being fried and filled with potato and chorizo. 

Darosa

This is a fairly new Italian restaurant in Juárez, serving great pasta and a good selection of wines. Highlights included the burrata and the milanesa. 

Anónimo 

In Condesa, potentially the best meal I had in CDMX - stunning Caesar salad, a beautiful stracciatella risotto, roast chicken with a sauce whose recipe I would give my left arm (but not my right, let’s not be crazy) for. 

Ticuchi 

It’s 100% worth the trip to Polanco for this restaurant. It’s very dark and moody inside, and the food is some of the best authentic Mexican food I’ve had yet - tacos, mole, guacamole, and the DESSERTS! A properly excellent ice-cream sandwich, plus a dessert (I can’t remember what it’s called) of little brioche balls soaked in rum and topped with ice-cream. Kinda like a rum baba, but better?

El Parnita 

Just lovely perfect delicious tacos. The selection of condiments served alongside is great, which I’ve been told is the best indicator of the quality of a taquería.

Pujol 

Having heard about Pujol for YEARS, I was so incredibly chuffed to be invited by my friend Karina to try the desserts. I’m super keen to go back for the full experience, but the desserts quite literally blew my mind. Nopal sorbet, figs en escabeche with fig leaf ice-cream, fermented plum ice-cream etc. etc. Save up ya pesos and go here ASAP. 

El Pescadito 

Sometimes you just want a fried fish taco, you know? These are gorge, and there’s a few of them around the city. 

Cantinas

I have to give a shout out to the ubiquitous cantina - bar/restaurants where you can eat authentic Mexican food, drink beers and cubas and be serenaded by live music in a fluorescently lit, eccentric venue. The food is free as long as you’re drinking, and you’re guaranteed to be surrounded by locals and (very loud) banda music. Just look up your closest one, and be prepared for a gorgeous, chaotic evening.

Restaurants I loved but didn’t take any pictures of: Amaya, El Tigre Silencioso

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